Fiesta not starting after driving for about 15 minutes then starting again after it sits for 30 minutes

[qkxgm0]

I have a 2013 Ford Fiesta SE and sometimes the car will not start after driving it for about 20 minutes then once it sits for about 30 minutes, it starts again. It runs fine once it starts. This happens intermittently maybe once every 5 to 10 starts. Has anyone had this issue or know the fix?

 

[Handy Andy]

sometimes the car will not start after driving it for about 20 minutes then once it sits for about 30 minutes, it starts again.

Ok...does the starter crank the engine when this happens - as in; it turns over, but just will not run?

 

[qkxgm0]

Ok...does the starter crank the engine when this happens - as in; it turns over, but just will not run?

Thank you for the response. Yes the starter will crank the engine but it will not start. I changed the spark plugs because I got code 300 and 301 but those codes are cleared now and the car ran fine and started fine for 2 days. It started fine and ran fine this morning Sometimes if the car is put in neutral it will start. It just happened again and once the gas was pressed all the way down, it started.

 

[Handy Andy]

IF you have not cleaned the throttle body, it may need some TLC.

Your "start when the pedal was pressed all the way down" means it was in a flooded condition.

So this may mean service for the throttle body, if it has not ever been cleaned, may have broken teeth in a gear set that moves the throttle by your pressing on the pedal. The thing is electric, it translates your foot pressure position on the pedal, to the throttle opening - if it's stuck shut from dirt and grime, this may explain it.

Why it won't start when just shut off? Hot motor - sticky gunk freezes the throttle plate in the closed position.

When it cools, the throttle body to throttle plate clearance is different - lets it move - so this may just need a good cleaning - worse case scenario - $120 bucks USD for a new throttle body - which if you've done spark plugs, you can replace this part yourself.

 

[qkxgm0]

Thank you Andy, I will try that. I was thinking it may be the fuel pump but I hear it hum when the key is turned. I will report back on the throttle body.

 

[Handy Andy]

The "humm" is from the Fuel pump, so when you get the next time to park in a quieter spot, listen to the humm of the pump.

Got to turn the key to Ignition, just not to "Start" so you can hear the pump humm.

It should shut off after a few moments - if it runs for more than a minute, or never stops, you may have plugged injectors causing the fuel pressure to never rise high enough to shut off the pump - a sensor in the fuel pump assembly might be at fault.

​

You may also own a Fiesta that uses a driver module that in the event of an accident or rollover crash, the system tells the fuel pump to shut off. Those are called FPDM Fuel Pump driver Module. Else the Fuel pump and the fuel line towards the front of the car - has a transducer to tell the system how much to regulate the pressure by running that motor thru the Fuel pump relay - you can hear a tink-tink-tink spaced about every 5 to 7 seconds, that is the system tellnig the Fuel pump to turn on and off runnig a relay to do so.

 

[qkxgm0]

Good morning Andy and thank you for this awesome information. Every time I turn the key to accessory as you state above, I hear the hmm for just a few seconds and it stops which is what the fuel pump is supposed to do. I just picked up the throttle body cleaner and will clean the throttle body later this afternoon and also change the air filter while I am at it. Hopefully that works or I will purchase a new one like you suggest above. I am hopeful it is the throttle body and not the fuel pump although the fuel pump is pretty easy to change on this vehicle. I also would like to get the injectors cleaned. In your opinion, what is the best way to do that? Let Firestone or another auto shop clean them? I am not too sure about the store bought fuel injector cleaner.

 

[Handy Andy]

The easier way to do this is just run a premium fuel (93 Octane or similar - not AV gas or anything 100proof) and SEAFOAM or Marvel Mystery Oil for at least tankful - to help the injectors recover.

You can also use a ISO-propyl alcohol based fuel line dryer - that would help in any gelling of fuel in the line and tank - may help with injector performance too.

The best advice though, is to have those older plugs inspected. If they fouled out from oil or fuel - you'd know which way to go..

 

[qkxgm0]

Hello Andy. I just changed the throttle body for a new one and the air filter. Neither of the old ones were not dirty at all so I figured maybe the motor was wearing out on the throttle body. Anyhow I allowed to run for about 15 minutes to do the relearning and then drove it for a half hour. Everything went well until I turned it off and let it sit for 5 minutes. Low and behold, it would not start again. The fuel pump is pumping gas to the injectors when the key is turned to the accessory position. Now I have ruled out spark plugs, throttle body, fuel pump and I don't believe it can be the filter because it is connected to the fuel pump in the tank. The injectors seem to be working fine as there is no loss of power when you get it over 55. What else can it be?

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Do you notice any raw fuel smell, by fully pressing the accelerator pedal, you put the car into clear flood mode which shuts off the injectors. Time will also clear a fuel rich intake. Something to think about.
Items off the top of my head that could cause rich condition would be leaky injectors, evap canister purge valve, bad fuel rail line pressure regulator.

 

[qkxgm0]

Thank you. No fuel smell when accelerator is pushed. How would you tell if the injectors are leaking? Would you smell gas which I do not.

 

[Handy Andy]

There are also other "suspects" including CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor)

Read this thread...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/p0340-p0016.7644/post-16906

and this one...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/ford-fiesta-mk7-starting-problem-and-ckp-codes.8893/post-24203

They're long and involved, but may give you some other ideas on what to do.

 

[qkxgm0]

Thank you. Those are very informative. I am not getting any codes though. This morning, I decided to drive it to work as this is my daughter's car. The drive was 40 minutes and of course no issues. When I parked, I turned off and started back up which I knew would happen. The issue seems to be after 5 to 10 minutes when it will not start again until 30 minutes to an hour. Normally, it would start for just a second and die out like it is not getting enough gas or the idle is too low. That is when you can't get it to start for about an hour. An odd thing happened, when I checked it about 8 minutes later, it did start. I check it again 20 minutes later and it started fine. I have got to get it somewhere for some diagnostics although if nothing happens during the diagnostics they will probably tell me eveything is fine which I know it is not.

 

[Handy Andy]

I am thinking it may be related to hot car, or something like a sensor, is getting too hot or starting to fail.

That's why I mentioned the "CKP" sensor, that one would not let the car CONTINUE to turn over, it would just drop and sit there, you'd try again and it would crank for that 3~5 seconds again, then dies ... nothing.

So you can crank the car, but no "fuel" - did you ever check the Spark Plugs for damage?

P0300 and P0301 are certainly misfires but is there an issue with the injectors?

Or do you have a failing harness?

Check the harness and the fuses back at the Fusebox, why? It's a 2013 sir, anything in the Electrical can generate a fault the system can not decode a code and throw a DTC over it when it is so intermittent

 

[Handy Andy]

I'm trying to perform Occam's Razor here, but does not mean that we can simplify this to one answer - I think it is, but as to which direction?

You know the spark plugs began to misfire.

Then

Replaced plugs worked ok.

Then

Condition re-occurs and owner is now more confused than ever.

Has to push pedal all the way to the Floor to Start car.

Flooding condition or a plugged fuel line?
Possible that Fuel Pump or Fuel Tank is contaminated?​

There are several threads about grounding in the passenger cockpit - by the Driver and Passenger front seats.

https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/body-control-modual.8227/post-20339

This one in particular shows where these ground points are located - under the carpet but bolted to the frame/carriage to provide ground back to the battery.

There is the Fuel pump and it's mess, located on the LEFT side - under the rear seat cushion - you have to remove it to get access to this harness to verify it's wiring and condition. That too has several wires in it that bolt to the frame near those seats.

 

[qkxgm0]

Thank you Andy. I am tired of chasing. I will just take it in to the dealership and see what they find out. I will report back what they find. It sounds like it would be simple but who knows. I wanted to change the fuel pump as I have seen videos and it seems very simple to change unlike some of the older ones where you had to drop the tank to change it.

 

[qkxgm0]

Here is an update on the starting problem. I took it to the dealer and it took two days to diagnose the issue. The hard starting is because there is a crack in the engine block and there is a little coolant dripping in 3rd cylindar which means an entire engine change. They quoted $8200 which I know is dealer talk which there is no way I would pay that. I am not sure what a rebuilt and installation would cost but it stinks anyhow you slice it.

 

[Handy Andy]

Not matter how you slice it - that sux!

If it was a cylinder head, you may have had a shot at less than $3,000 to replace the head, but the block - thats the main part and it's also where the main cooling jacket is - so this puts it as scrap and you'll need another.

IT should not be all that bad to put another motor in it, just depends on the mileage and what you're willing to have "rebuilt" on it, while it's off the mounts and the motors not yet installed - it's open to be repaired.

How many miles?

 

[qkxgm0]

The engine miles are 123K. I did see a quote from a place called Quality Used Engines for $1070 for a used 1.6L engine with less than 60K with what they claim is a 5 year 50k warranty. It says all engines are inspectred and pressure tested. I hear there are thousands of these engines out there. That does not sound bad but finding someone to install it may be an issue. How much do you think these installs costs in a non-dealer price?

 

[Handy Andy]

IF you let the neighborhood kids do this, you buy some Pizza and Beer, it's just the cost of the Pizza and Beer...

But if you want the mechanic that has some sense on how it's put together, the Pizza 'n Beer and maybe $500.

The commision? Thats between you and the mechanic. There may be a list of parts you'll have to replace on your vehicle before he gives you an "Okie-Dokie" and goes to work putting it all together.

It's easier per the year, and it's easier even more when the current ride is still in good shape - the junker may not be the best but it may have the parts needed to make the new work better for the transition - like coolant hoses, tanks, plumbing for the Fuel lines, Motor Mounts - wiring and connectors - e&c

Lots of times the place that rebuilds, can also offer to "Contract" with a mechanic to help put that motor in - because it's a referral. That too, can save a lot of $$$ due to the repeat business.