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Mk7 Alarm keeps going off after battery replacement

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#1
Hi,

I replaced the battery in my 2009 fiesta 1.4 titanium yesterday and ever since, the alarm has been going off (maybe every 2 hours?) and I think my neighbours hate me...
I've slammed the doors, bonnet and boot shut to make sure they weren't slightly open or anything, but it hasn't helped. Everything else works, the radio, windows, lights etc and it drives perfectly so I'm not really sure what could be causing it. As I mentioned, I changed the battery yesterday, maybe there is a step I missed where I need to let the car know somehow?

Any help would be appreciated greatly!
 

scotman

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#2
This forum is aimed at the North American version of the Fiesta. So, we don't have a firm notion of exactly what you have in the way of anti theft system.
The two types generally offered are the basic starter interrupt-passive anti theft or the more sophisticated perimeter sensing type that unlocks the car when they grab the driver's door handle.
I would have that new battery load tested. Just because its new doesn't mean that its good.
Secondly, i would have the negative battery cable to chassis connection checked and cleaned.
You may also have a situation occurring where a circuit relay may not be shutting down when you key off.
Our cars do not really ever totally "shut down". The keep alive memory, anti theft and audio unit memory and capacitive screens are continuously powered to varied degrees. The Japanese engineers i work with have named this condition "Dark Energy".
In the broadest sense of an opinion for the root cause of this issue, i would lay blame at either a poor ground connection or a stuck or failing relay.
I am just offering a somewhat educated guess sight unseen from many thousands of miles away.
Just tell your neighbors that you believe that your fiesta is possessed by demonic forces and you are trying to find an exorcist.
 
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Thread Starter #3
Ah I see, yeah it didn't cross my mind that we might not have the same technology in our cars based on region of the world. I doubt I have the fancy type because it's still a basic 2009 car and doesn't have any kind of keyless entry or anything which would happen when I touch the handle.

My issue is I'm a student with not a lot of money to throw at diagnosing these problems so I was hoping I could avoid getting professionals in to test/fix stuff haha, so that does make the battery load testing harder.

I will clean the negative terminal though, that was a bit coated in grime when I replaced the old battery but I assumed it would be fine because the old one was. Although saying that, back in the summer I had a similar issue with the alarm going off which seemed to resolve itself.... so maybe the relay theory is correct?

I do really appreciate the suggestions! I'll find some degreaser or electrical contact cleaner or something to give it a go and hopefully that'll solve my problem
 

econoboxrocks

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#4
It may be that simple. If nothing else, you've eliminated a possible cause.
 

scotman

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#5
You don't have to spend lots of money. The tools that are needed are a 10m and 8m wrench and a small wire brush, a small piece of emory paper in #100 or #120 grit to clean up the terminals and ground connections. Then plain old petroleum jelly to coat your handiwork after the cleaning.
The parts shop you bought the battery from should be able to load test your battery at ZERO cost to you! If not, how do they determine whether a battery is bad and require replacement?
anyways, you want to remove the battery from the tray and also the tray and its thermal. Protection surround. Then you have good access to the chassis grounds point!. Dont be miserly with the petroleum jelly after the cleaning. You don't want to go back in there anytime soon!. I can post up some pics of what you generally want to do, if you have concerns about the whole process.
 

Handy Andy

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#6
This might sounds Crazy, but it may also be from a poor - or corroded Fuse connection ...

Well, think about this, if you live in damp humid environment - by an ocean - you have two types of Hazards - Fresh water rainfall adding to the humidity, as well as the Sea air, and it's salt-laden droplets floating in from the surf...

These two alone are very detrimental to electrical systems by themselves - combined, are accelerants.

Might not be a bad idea to take a moment and pull fuses and check them for proper seating - the pull and insertion can help burnish and even remove some corrosion - yes corrosion - the fuse leads can be of aluminum, silver tinned steel - or even plated steel (usually nickel) - this way - by age and effort in work - this can reveal some issues that were present - now resolved, by simply reseating/replacing loose, dirty or corroded components and by wiring harness checks for seating and tightness.

I have always dreaded the fact that they put so many fuses in the newer vehicles, but only to save themselves.

How? - for in older systems - one fuse may handle several portions of the vehicle systems like ignition and starting - but Brakes and Turns signals were used on another, while Radio and Cigarette had it's own and The Blower heater and AC kinda were on their own branch.

They tried consolidation of systems to bring in thru the firewall and to keep the hole and grommet somewhat physically workable - and dry - see above - many branches were consolidated - used to be handled thru Fusible links, A.K.A. - a cheap way to splice more wires together - that you had to track down and fix.
  • - now it's been broken into simpler blocks and terminals
    • - using fuses to keep other critical systems working and operational so at least you could make it to a shop if you kept your wits about you.
    • Due to regulations - it's a necessity to keep other subsystems operational so the vehicle doesn't, or at least reduces the chance for a, crash...
So a simple hour or less of pulling fuses in the various locations can help you understand the car more, and also improve the reliability of the same by just verifying the fuses are what they should be rated for. This is important even in used car lots where dealers don't usually offer a 100% full buyer guarantee that someone did fix, repair, or even look at the vehicles' electrical system.
 

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#7
Yes! Some north American Fiesta owners have reported that their underhood fuse blocks are not weather sealed very well. A salt air environment or exposure to road salts have caused expensive headaches.
I had noticed that the underhood fuse box in my 2011 was getting lots of dust and gritty particles in it. I am not happy with the design of the box cover.
I don't think that cleaning the fuse box with compressed air and then electrical terminal spray lube should be a normal or routine procedure on a modern car.
I have heard that a new fuse box and related harness is well over $500 bucks.
 
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Carracer12

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Thread Starter #8
You don't have to spend lots of money. The tools that are needed are a 10m and 8m wrench and a small wire brush, a small piece of emory paper in #100 or #120 grit to clean up the terminals and ground connections. Then plain old petroleum jelly to coat your handiwork after the cleaning.
The parts shop you bought the battery from should be able to load test your battery at ZERO cost to you! If not, how do they determine whether a battery is bad and require replacement?
anyways, you want to remove the battery from the tray and also the tray and its thermal. Protection surround. Then you have good access to the chassis grounds point!. Dont be miserly with the petroleum jelly after the cleaning. You don't want to go back in there anytime soon!. I can post up some pics of what you generally want to do, if you have concerns about the whole process.
So I took the leads back off of the battery terminals, the terminals were actually pretty clean already but I went at them a bit anyway. Reattached the leads as tight as I dared to go but it's still going off... I'm now thinking it could be the boot switch
 
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Carracer12

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Thread Starter #9
This might sounds Crazy, but it may also be from a poor - or corroded Fuse connection ...

Well, think about this, if you live in damp humid environment - by an ocean - you have two types of Hazards - Fresh water rainfall adding to the humidity, as well as the Sea air, and it's salt-laden droplets floating in from the surf...

These two alone are very detrimental to electrical systems by themselves - combined, are accelerants.

Might not be a bad idea to take a moment and pull fuses and check them for proper seating - the pull and insertion can help burnish and even remove some corrosion - yes corrosion - the fuse leads can be of aluminum, silver tinned steel - or even plated steel (usually nickel) - this way - by age and effort in work - this can reveal some issues that were present - now resolved, by simply reseating/replacing loose, dirty or corroded components and by wiring harness checks for seating and tightness.

I have always dreaded the fact that they put so many fuses in the newer vehicles, but only to save themselves.

How? - for in older systems - one fuse may handle several portions of the vehicle systems like ignition and starting - but Brakes and Turns signals were used on another, while Radio and Cigarette had it's own and The Blower heater and AC kinda were on their own branch.

They tried consolidation of systems to bring in thru the firewall and to keep the hole and grommet somewhat physically workable - and dry - see above - many branches were consolidated - used to be handled thru Fusible links, A.K.A. - a cheap way to splice more wires together - that you had to track down and fix.
  • - now it's been broken into simpler blocks and terminals
    • - using fuses to keep other critical systems working and operational so at least you could make it to a shop if you kept your wits about you.
    • Due to regulations - it's a necessity to keep other subsystems operational so the vehicle doesn't, or at least reduces the chance for a, crash...
So a simple hour or less of pulling fuses in the various locations can help you understand the car more, and also improve the reliability of the same by just verifying the fuses are what they should be rated for. This is important even in used car lots where dealers don't usually offer a 100% full buyer guarantee that someone did fix, repair, or even look at the vehicles' electrical system.
This could actually make a lot of sense! I live in the UK so we get plenty of rain and the roads are always covered in salt during the winters. I've also lived in a coastal city for the last 3 years so that could be it. I am willing to give this a go, even if it's only to get a better idea of how everything in the car goes together. Is there somewhere I can see a diagram or list of all the fuse locations/what they do so I can work through it methodically? Or are they all in one centralised place?

Thanks for the input guys!
 
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Carracer12

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Thread Starter #10
So after taking the battery out, cleaned the terminals and ends of the leads in the car, I've started getting the boot open warning. So I've tried the trick of moving the U-shaped shackle up/towards me at the opening of the boot. It's still going off after WD40-ing the mechanism as well so I'm lost really as to what I can do
 

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#11
The alarm could be getting tripped by a weak ground connection. The alarm systems are rather sensitive to voltage drops or interruptions.
One way to get around the issue for a while would be to simply disconnect the negative battery terminal at night! Alarm issue resolved!
A guide to the location of the anti theft relay or fuse should be in the owners manual. Or maybe it's on the inside of the fuse box lid.
I would just disconnect that battery cable at night and save my money until i could have it properly investigated. Good luck!
 
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Carracer12

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Thread Starter #12
The alarm could be getting tripped by a weak ground connection. The alarm systems are rather sensitive to voltage drops or interruptions.
One way to get around the issue for a while would be to simply disconnect the negative battery terminal at night! Alarm issue resolved!
A guide to the location of the anti theft relay or fuse should be in the owners manual. Or maybe it's on the inside of the fuse box lid.
I would just disconnect that battery cable at night and save my money until i could have it properly investigated. Good luck!
I did consider doing this, however if I disconnect the battery, I can't lock the doors. I tried with the key in the keyhole on the driver's door but it did nothing. So I have no way to secure the vehicle if I do disconnect the battery.
 

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#13
Oh! Then you might want to have a technician get busy on it. In the states the diagnosis labor time is usually an hour. They bill that along with the parts and labor time if you choose to get it repaired.
 
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Carracer12

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Thread Starter #14
Oh! Then you might want to have a technician get busy on it. In the states the diagnosis labor time is usually an hour. They bill that along with the parts and labor time if you choose to get it repaired.
Yeah I've admitted defeat and requested a booking for Thursday so hopefully they can work it out. Thanks for all the suggestions and I'll let you guys know what the mechanics say
 

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#15
Yes. Especially share the root cause story where the technician describes the corrective actions
 

Handy Andy

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#16
As you prepare, for the bill and the repair...you can see what electrical work for Ground cable - engine Negative relocated to battery to frame point here...

https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/electrical-problems.7836/post-17920

One thing that I didn't ask earlier - that can be related...

Your keyfobs - did you have a chance to "train" both keyfobs to the new battery? (If it uses them)

Why? Well, knowing my own system uses two - and both "fobs" use batteries themselves - wonder if the vehicle is getting "pinged" by other systems and if you use one fob a lot, but the other as a spare up on a key hook in the house somewhere for backup - did you try seeing if both are "trained" to the vehicle to recognize them?

You have a 2009 Fiesta, and you needed a New Battery - I shudder to think that they may also encounter another problem or at least try to coherce you into doing it

I'm referring to the Alternator - if that is original - and you replaced the battery and it's a 2009 - the Alternator doesn't last forever, they do have bearings and brushes to operate their coils to make the system charge.

If you haven't had the charging system inspected - they may demand they do it to protect their interests.
 
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Carracer12

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Thread Starter #17
As you prepare, for the bill and the repair...you can see what electrical work for Ground cable - engine Negative relocated to battery to frame point here...

https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/electrical-problems.7836/post-17920

One thing that I didn't ask earlier - that can be related...

Your keyfobs - did you have a chance to "train" both keyfobs to the new battery? (If it uses them)

Why? Well, knowing my own system uses two - and both "fobs" use batteries themselves - wonder if the vehicle is getting "pinged" by other systems and if you use one fob a lot, but the other as a spare up on a key hook in the house somewhere for backup - did you try seeing if both are "trained" to the vehicle to recognize them?

You have a 2009 Fiesta, and you needed a New Battery - I shudder to think that they may also encounter another problem or at least try to coherce you into doing it

I'm referring to the Alternator - if that is original - and you replaced the battery and it's a 2009 - the Alternator doesn't last forever, they do have bearings and brushes to operate their coils to make the system charge.

If you haven't had the charging system inspected - they may demand they do it to protect their interests.
I haven't done anything with the key fob since changing it, I've only got 1 fob at this house and it just worked. Alternator-wise, I think it's actually ok, whenever my battery was dead, I could jump/push start the car and it would work fine. The reason I suspected the battery is that it was the original, the car's been sat around unused for most of our lockdowns here in the UK and it's been unusually cold. Also the fact all 4 of my housemate's cars had the same issue with being dead after a month or two of little to no use.

One of my housemate's cars had an alternator issue last year and it was nothing like that, the car basically died while we were driving with all the electronic systems slowly flickering off one by one. But with mine it just wouldn't start, I'd give it a little push and go for a long-ish drive, which would mean it would start ok up to a week or so afterwards. Since I replaced the battery, I've had no problems whatsoever with the car starting (I haven't left it for quite as long between uses though)

P.S. The booking has been delayed until Monday so I'll have to live with an alarm until then haha
 
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scotman

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#19
Okay! Good to hear that it was not a deeply ingrained issue. I've seen failed boot release switches where the exterior touch pad failed. Hopefully the lockdowns will lift and you can resume moving about freely.
 

Handy Andy

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#20
Wow, don't hear this too often, but glad you got this fixed...

Hoping for the best!

Miles of Smiles!
 


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